After a couple of day's rest from my first foray to the Edinburgh Independent Beer Festival (EIBF) of 2013 it was time to head back to Edinburgh on the Saturday (my 4th weekend in a row to the Capital City, I was starting recognise some of the staff and passengers on the same train out of Queen Street). This time I hoped to take in the bars I'd missed on Wednesday as well as engage in a fairly lightning strike on the Scottish Real Ale Festival (SRAF) as there were only so many hours available in the afternoon.
View EIBF2 in a larger map
Outward transport was as follows:-
Train: Glasgow Queen St to Edinburgh Haymarket
On leaving Haymarket I decided that a walk out to the venue of the SRAF, the Edinburgh Corn Exchange, approx. a mile & a 1/2 south-west of the station would be a good idea before the full effects of a Scottish summer's sun unfolded (incredibly I say that without a hint of sarcasm this year). Thankfully one of the EIBF bars was pretty well on the way, The Caley Sample Room on Angle Park Terrace - I like it when these things work out.
The Caley had opened at 11:00am for the odd breakfast or coffee person, but it was completely empty when I reached it at just past 11:15am, although everything was spic-and-span on the lounge side of the bar and all the tables had been set for lunch on the dining side. They had held a Meet-the-Brewer event with Harbour Brewing from Cornwall as part of the EIBF on Wednesday so the hand-pulls and keg taps were still full of Harbour beers.
Morning was the not time to try some full-on barrel-aged 7%+ beers so I settled for a Harbour Antipodean Rye, a spicy rye ale with a blast of bitter hops in the finish - an nice beer, but it did seem to be served a tad too warm (I'll blame it on being the first drink of the day). The Harbour Pale Ale #5 was far better - a lovely bitter pale ale with some citra sweet grapefruit (almost pineappley) bitterness. I did manage to cage a couple of samples of both the Harbour Special B (aged in Appleton rum casks) and the Tiny Rebel Grand Regal Stout (Canadian Bourbon Barrel), many thanks to the barman for this, but both are definitely night-cap beers for me.
First beers of the day done (well before noon, gads!) I headed further along Slateford Road towards the Corn Exchange. When in this part of the city and with the wind in the right direction the scent from the Caledonian Brewery is fantastic - a full-on aroma of sweet toffee malt. And the building still looks fantastic as well.
Further along Slateford Road I came across what used to be the Slateford Maltings; these closed quite some time ago and instead there is now a gated entranceway to an almost fully enclosed 6-storey U-shaped apartment complex complete with tree-lined inner courtyard - it's a large, impressive structure which thankfully still retains a lot of its original shape & form.
A walk of only a few minutes more then took me to the Corn Exchange complex. I arrived just as the queue of thirsty drinkers had been let in; good timing on my part.
After a chat with Graeme from CAMRA Ayrshire (and fellow Laurieston Bar fan) I entered the spacious main hall of the Corn Exchange. There were still 125 beers available, not bad at all for a Saturday (they were also opening on the Sunday for the first time), but obviously a lot of the more interesting and/or newly released beers has disappeared. What was still fully available to Saturday attendees was the Golden Beer challenge - 8 golden beers from 8 different breweries all at 5% abv to be tried and rated as part of a blind tasting - a really good idea indeed (and won by Stewart Brewing - see the results on the SRAF Facebook page here)
There were also some more than decent beers with actual real names available - I tried my first ever beers from both Stonehaven's six°north (Old School, a lovely Belgian Wit) and also Windswept's APA (not bad, a bit too sweet & malty for me). However my favourite was probably Loch Ness's madNESS (One Hop Beyond), an initially well balanced amber ale which then finished with a real blast of bitter green hops (and the pump-clip showed a nice bit of imagination at work as well).
I think I stayed at the SRAF for only about an hour and a 1/2; it would have been very easy to stay for most of the afternoon but I had a number of pubs to visit before my late afternoon curfew. First of all I had to get the bus back into the city centre which (again thankfully) picks up almost opposite the Corn Exchange building. Although I managed to miss this by about 15 seconds, it was easy enough to catch it at the next stop around the corner due to the non-synchronisation of traffic lights around the Corn Exchange junction - phew! This dropped me off at Lothian Road and from here it was not exactly a hard decision to head to the sanctuary (ouch!) of Cloisters for lunch and more EIBF beer.
Cloisters were showcasing Scottish beers during EIBF and the day before they had held the launch of the newest Edinburgh area microbrewery, Top Out Brewery. I'd had their Staple at SRAF, a nice citrusy pale ale (maybe a tad sweet), but this gave me the chance to try their Smoked Porter and wow was this smoky, some bitter chocolate at the start but it was blitzed by the smoky malts and probably headed way out into deep fried smoked sausage supper territory - I quite liked it!
I ordered lunch and chatted to the staff about the Wild Beer/Fyne Ales collaboration beer, Cool as a Cucumber, which I'd had during FyneFest. The comments on twitter were suggesting that it went incredibly well with a shot of Botanist Islay gin, and the staff agreed with some knowing nods of their heads; obviously lethal stuff (I'm not sure if it's a blessing that I really dislike gin or not!). Lunch was one of Cloisters' celebrated salads, this time Chicken & Chorizo with chunky chips - with the Top Out Smoked Porter this is definite contender for Food & Beer pairing of the year so far.
Again it would have been easy to stay in Cloisters for an hour (or 2 or 3), but I needed to start walking back down Lothian Road towards some of the other EIBF pubs. First off was EIBF Central, The Hanging Bat.
I thought they were due to have a hands-on brewing demonstration in the afternoon, but it had been cancelled (although the Meet-the-Brewer with Redchurch & Summer Wine was still happening later on in the afternoon). This was probably just as well since it 'forced' me to choose only a single beer from their great selection and I went for Saison 14 from Weird Beard Brewing, a lovely light, dry & hoppy Saison. The 14 supposedly comes from when the original homebrew beer scored 14/50 in a national competition, i.e. almost 'undrinkable'. That certainly wasn't the case for the beer I had today, I'd have given it 41/50!
The next EIBF bar on my list was The Cambridge Bar, so this meant a walk to the west-end of Princes Street and then down Charlotte Street until the relative quiet of Young Street (it's amazing how much quieter things become just one additional street further away from Rose Street and George Street).
Even mid-afternoon the place was fairly busy with people having a late lunch, so most of the tables both at the bar area and further in towards the dining area were taken, but they do have a number of standing tables around the beam supports which I quite like. The Cambridge Bar was showcasing Wild Beer Company beers so I took a half of the Redwood, one of the most red-wine tasting beers I think I've ever had with an almost red wine vinegar sour after-taste. It was quite OK for a 1/2 but I don't think I could really have much more of it than that.
On leaving the Cambridge I headed into the lanes, lush foliage, mews apartments and steep steps of Stockbridge, probably one of the most affluent parts of the the city.
Located at the very start of busy Raeburn Place is the Stockbridge Tap.
They were showcasing Beavertown, Weird Beard and Tiny Rebel beers as well as having some of their standards from Scottish breweries and a very nice selection it was indeed.
I started off with the Tiny Rebel Cwtch, a slightly maltier & more fruity version of the Flux that I'd had on Wednesday; Cwtch is Welsh for 'Affectionate Hug' and I could well believe that on a cold night a pint of this would be like a 'hug in a glass'. Next I steeled myself to try the Beavertown Bloody 'Ell, a Blood Orange IPA at 7.9%. It seemed as if an orange tree had died to make this beer since there was so much orange aroma & taste, a blast of dry citrus & some red berries and then more orange in the finish - it was very nice indeed (and did I say it was orangey ?). And finally I tried the Beavertown 8-Ball, a murky rye beer with a dry citrus after-taste. Beavertown, Weird Beard & Tiny Rebel are certainly making some good beers and these were a more than acceptable way to while a hour or so away in the fabulous front room of the Stockbridge Tap.
I didn't really fancy the 30 degree climb back up Gloucester Street so took the bus from almost outside the Tap to Princes Street. This allowed me to walk through Princes Street Gardens and it's not too that often that I stop and think how fortunate it is to have a 'green space' on the other side of a main shopping street, complete with great views of a World Heritage Site (i.e. Edinburgh Castle).
I was then able to walk through the massed throng populating the Grassmarket...
... until reaching my final EIBF destination, the wonderful single-roomed traditional alehouse of The Bow Bar.
As always the beer selection in the Bow was pretty impressive, both on the magnificent Aitken tall fonts and the keg taps.
The most striking pump-clip/label was that of the Buxton/To Øl collaboration beer Sky Mountain (or Himmelbjerget), which took over 3 of the keg taps and which 'purported' to display a graph & pie-chart of the dreaming activity of the Danish people - bizzare & quite different to say the least. This was another sour beer, but with lots of bright, zesty citrus bitterness and a tart after-taste, very refreshing indeed on a hot summer's day. I managed to chat with a few other untappd users in the Bow about the EIBF - it was more than evident that everyone was having a great time and the talk was all about the great beers and where they'd had them.
And that was it - EIBF was done for me for another year. My beer of EIBF was probably the Kernel Imperial Brown Stout that I'd had in the Southern on Wednesday, but there really were so many amazing beers to try. Thanks again to A New Wave and all the pubs & bars that I visited - I had a blast!
Return transport:-
Bus: Corn Exchange to Lothian Road (35, Lothian Buses)
Bus: Stockbridge to Princes Street (29, Lothian Buses)
Train: Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen St
Showing posts with label Pubs: Edinburgh - Stockbridge Tap. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pubs: Edinburgh - Stockbridge Tap. Show all posts
Thursday, 18 July 2013
Sunday, 18 September 2011
Edinburgh New Town to the Forth, 17th September 2011
I go to Edinburgh fairly often for sporting events (rugby, cricket), "the culture" (gigs, museums, The Festival) and also for beer. There really are a lot of decent real ale pubs (and craft beer bars - did I really say that ?) in Edinburgh. It's not really possible go through them all in a day (not even close), so I normally have to plan for a certain area of the city. Today I decided to go the New Town and then walk down to Newhaven and Leith on the shore of the River Forth.
View Edinburgh - New Town in a larger map
Outward travel:
 Train: Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Haymarket
The main reason for the New Town today was the beer festival at The Stockbridge Tap. I remember when the place was a Bert's Bar (similar to the one in William St) with an OK choice of beer, but now it's owned by the same people who have Cloisters and The Bow Bar and the choice is normally very good.
After the hike up and down the roads/lanes from Haymarket, The Stockbridge Tap was a welcoming sight at a busy corner of Raeburn Place.
There was a nice relaxed atmosphere to the place, the staff were smart and chatty and most of the tables taken in the front of the bar. As well as selling cask real ale it was also selling kegged 'craft' beer - I really don't have a problem with that so long as it's a good quality, tasty alcoholic beverage. On cask for the festival today were a Wheat Beer from Highland, Cheers from Roosters, Infamy from Empire, Moramer from Deeside and Hawkshead Bitter- a really good choice (although I was too early for the Magic Rock beers - sigh). After the excellent Highland Wheat Beer I tried the Brave New World on keg from Tempest - it was tasty but just far too fizzy - it kept frothing over the top of the glass. For food I'd been following their twitter feed and I knew exactly what I wanted for lunch - Sausages and Mash with Black Isle Vanilla Porter gravy - and it was outstanding - easily worth a picture on its own.
When in Edinburgh I normally try to go to at least one pub I've never been to and this time it was The St. Vincent, 2 minutes from The Tap. It's one of those strange places where you have to go downstairs to enter, but you can sit at tables almost level with the outside pavement - so it's a basement bar, but you're not really below ground - confusing.
It's fairly spacious inside, with the bar staff attentive and chatty - there was even an offer of a Tunnocks Tea Cake, which I declined. Beer wise there was Knops IPA and Musselburgh Broke - great - I'd been trying to find the IPA on cask for a while, but it was definitely a bit lower down the hop scale compared to the Brave New World at The Stockbridge Tap - nice pint though.
Afterwards I started off for the riverside. I walked past The Botanic Gardens, Heriots rugby ground (playing away this week) and some seriously expensive houses before I reached the shoreline. I thought I might have a look in The Old Chain Pier, but it was closed and up for lease, definitely a shame since the views across the Forth are absolutely stunning.
Not too far further along was The Starbank Inn - a Belhaven/GK pub.
I'm not sure if it was a Belhaven/GK pub the last time I visited (probably 5 years or so ago), but again (as per The Waverley, Callander), my memories are of a far better beer range than now - currently 4x Belhaven/GK, 4x guests. I still had an OKish pint of Blonde Bombshell from TSA (although it did seem very similar to their own Lomond Gold), so I'll limit any repetitive moaning.
Now it was a somewhat longer walk along the newly developed Leith dockyard area (and the really incredible amount of new condo-style apartments going up there) to the Malt and Hops.
Walking in I was struck by how little the place has changed. Still quite dark, tables at the back, dangling bunches of hops, papers, leaflets etc... However (shockingly) the masses of pump-clips on the ceiling had gone, with only a small amount left at the bar - what a shame (due to theft, I guess). I remember being there one time when they were about to put on Wychwood Hobgoblin, no-one could find the pump-clip on the ceiling (even for the reward of a free pint), but I saved the day with a torn-out advert (what's the matter lagerboy etc...) from my What's Brewing newsletter - no free pint though! Today the pump-clips were displaying beer from Tryst (Antonine Amber), Highgate (IPA), Stewart and also Blue Bear (White Boar) which I certainly had not seen before.
After finishing my pint, rather than walk back to the city centre up Leith Walk, I decided to wimp out and take the bus back up to Princes Street to have time to try the new Brewdog beer, Hops Kill Nazis. It was a good, spicy, strong amber beer - shame about the name.
Return transport:
 Bus: Leith to Princes Street (22, Lothian)
 Train: Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen Street
View Edinburgh - New Town in a larger map
Outward travel:
 Train: Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Haymarket
The main reason for the New Town today was the beer festival at The Stockbridge Tap. I remember when the place was a Bert's Bar (similar to the one in William St) with an OK choice of beer, but now it's owned by the same people who have Cloisters and The Bow Bar and the choice is normally very good.
After the hike up and down the roads/lanes from Haymarket, The Stockbridge Tap was a welcoming sight at a busy corner of Raeburn Place.
There was a nice relaxed atmosphere to the place, the staff were smart and chatty and most of the tables taken in the front of the bar. As well as selling cask real ale it was also selling kegged 'craft' beer - I really don't have a problem with that so long as it's a good quality, tasty alcoholic beverage. On cask for the festival today were a Wheat Beer from Highland, Cheers from Roosters, Infamy from Empire, Moramer from Deeside and Hawkshead Bitter- a really good choice (although I was too early for the Magic Rock beers - sigh). After the excellent Highland Wheat Beer I tried the Brave New World on keg from Tempest - it was tasty but just far too fizzy - it kept frothing over the top of the glass. For food I'd been following their twitter feed and I knew exactly what I wanted for lunch - Sausages and Mash with Black Isle Vanilla Porter gravy - and it was outstanding - easily worth a picture on its own.
When in Edinburgh I normally try to go to at least one pub I've never been to and this time it was The St. Vincent, 2 minutes from The Tap. It's one of those strange places where you have to go downstairs to enter, but you can sit at tables almost level with the outside pavement - so it's a basement bar, but you're not really below ground - confusing.
It's fairly spacious inside, with the bar staff attentive and chatty - there was even an offer of a Tunnocks Tea Cake, which I declined. Beer wise there was Knops IPA and Musselburgh Broke - great - I'd been trying to find the IPA on cask for a while, but it was definitely a bit lower down the hop scale compared to the Brave New World at The Stockbridge Tap - nice pint though.
Afterwards I started off for the riverside. I walked past The Botanic Gardens, Heriots rugby ground (playing away this week) and some seriously expensive houses before I reached the shoreline. I thought I might have a look in The Old Chain Pier, but it was closed and up for lease, definitely a shame since the views across the Forth are absolutely stunning.
Not too far further along was The Starbank Inn - a Belhaven/GK pub.
I'm not sure if it was a Belhaven/GK pub the last time I visited (probably 5 years or so ago), but again (as per The Waverley, Callander), my memories are of a far better beer range than now - currently 4x Belhaven/GK, 4x guests. I still had an OKish pint of Blonde Bombshell from TSA (although it did seem very similar to their own Lomond Gold), so I'll limit any repetitive moaning.
Now it was a somewhat longer walk along the newly developed Leith dockyard area (and the really incredible amount of new condo-style apartments going up there) to the Malt and Hops.
Walking in I was struck by how little the place has changed. Still quite dark, tables at the back, dangling bunches of hops, papers, leaflets etc... However (shockingly) the masses of pump-clips on the ceiling had gone, with only a small amount left at the bar - what a shame (due to theft, I guess). I remember being there one time when they were about to put on Wychwood Hobgoblin, no-one could find the pump-clip on the ceiling (even for the reward of a free pint), but I saved the day with a torn-out advert (what's the matter lagerboy etc...) from my What's Brewing newsletter - no free pint though! Today the pump-clips were displaying beer from Tryst (Antonine Amber), Highgate (IPA), Stewart and also Blue Bear (White Boar) which I certainly had not seen before.
After finishing my pint, rather than walk back to the city centre up Leith Walk, I decided to wimp out and take the bus back up to Princes Street to have time to try the new Brewdog beer, Hops Kill Nazis. It was a good, spicy, strong amber beer - shame about the name.
Return transport:
 Bus: Leith to Princes Street (22, Lothian)
 Train: Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen Street
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