After a couple of day's rest from my first foray to the Edinburgh Independent Beer Festival (EIBF) of 2013 it was time to head back to Edinburgh on the Saturday (my 4th weekend in a row to the Capital City, I was starting recognise some of the staff and passengers on the same train out of Queen Street). This time I hoped to take in the bars I'd missed on Wednesday as well as engage in a fairly lightning strike on the Scottish Real Ale Festival (SRAF) as there were only so many hours available in the afternoon.
View EIBF2 in a larger map
Outward transport was as follows:-
Train: Glasgow Queen St to Edinburgh Haymarket
On leaving Haymarket I decided that a walk out to the venue of the SRAF, the Edinburgh Corn Exchange, approx. a mile & a 1/2 south-west of the station would be a good idea before the full effects of a Scottish summer's sun unfolded (incredibly I say that without a hint of sarcasm this year). Thankfully one of the EIBF bars was pretty well on the way, The Caley Sample Room on Angle Park Terrace - I like it when these things work out.
The Caley had opened at 11:00am for the odd breakfast or coffee person, but it was completely empty when I reached it at just past 11:15am, although everything was spic-and-span on the lounge side of the bar and all the tables had been set for lunch on the dining side. They had held a Meet-the-Brewer event with Harbour Brewing from Cornwall as part of the EIBF on Wednesday so the hand-pulls and keg taps were still full of Harbour beers.
Morning was the not time to try some full-on barrel-aged 7%+ beers so I settled for a Harbour Antipodean Rye, a spicy rye ale with a blast of bitter hops in the finish - an nice beer, but it did seem to be served a tad too warm (I'll blame it on being the first drink of the day). The Harbour Pale Ale #5 was far better - a lovely bitter pale ale with some citra sweet grapefruit (almost pineappley) bitterness. I did manage to cage a couple of samples of both the Harbour Special B (aged in Appleton rum casks) and the Tiny Rebel Grand Regal Stout (Canadian Bourbon Barrel), many thanks to the barman for this, but both are definitely night-cap beers for me.
First beers of the day done (well before noon, gads!) I headed further along Slateford Road towards the Corn Exchange. When in this part of the city and with the wind in the right direction the scent from the Caledonian Brewery is fantastic - a full-on aroma of sweet toffee malt. And the building still looks fantastic as well.
Further along Slateford Road I came across what used to be the Slateford Maltings; these closed quite some time ago and instead there is now a gated entranceway to an almost fully enclosed 6-storey U-shaped apartment complex complete with tree-lined inner courtyard - it's a large, impressive structure which thankfully still retains a lot of its original shape & form.
A walk of only a few minutes more then took me to the Corn Exchange complex. I arrived just as the queue of thirsty drinkers had been let in; good timing on my part.
After a chat with Graeme from CAMRA Ayrshire (and fellow Laurieston Bar fan) I entered the spacious main hall of the Corn Exchange. There were still 125 beers available, not bad at all for a Saturday (they were also opening on the Sunday for the first time), but obviously a lot of the more interesting and/or newly released beers has disappeared. What was still fully available to Saturday attendees was the Golden Beer challenge - 8 golden beers from 8 different breweries all at 5% abv to be tried and rated as part of a blind tasting - a really good idea indeed (and won by Stewart Brewing - see the results on the SRAF Facebook page here)
There were also some more than decent beers with actual real names available - I tried my first ever beers from both Stonehaven's six°north (Old School, a lovely Belgian Wit) and also Windswept's APA (not bad, a bit too sweet & malty for me). However my favourite was probably Loch Ness's madNESS (One Hop Beyond), an initially well balanced amber ale which then finished with a real blast of bitter green hops (and the pump-clip showed a nice bit of imagination at work as well).
I think I stayed at the SRAF for only about an hour and a 1/2; it would have been very easy to stay for most of the afternoon but I had a number of pubs to visit before my late afternoon curfew. First of all I had to get the bus back into the city centre which (again thankfully) picks up almost opposite the Corn Exchange building. Although I managed to miss this by about 15 seconds, it was easy enough to catch it at the next stop around the corner due to the non-synchronisation of traffic lights around the Corn Exchange junction - phew! This dropped me off at Lothian Road and from here it was not exactly a hard decision to head to the sanctuary (ouch!) of Cloisters for lunch and more EIBF beer.
Cloisters were showcasing Scottish beers during EIBF and the day before they had held the launch of the newest Edinburgh area microbrewery, Top Out Brewery. I'd had their Staple at SRAF, a nice citrusy pale ale (maybe a tad sweet), but this gave me the chance to try their Smoked Porter and wow was this smoky, some bitter chocolate at the start but it was blitzed by the smoky malts and probably headed way out into deep fried smoked sausage supper territory - I quite liked it!
I ordered lunch and chatted to the staff about the Wild Beer/Fyne Ales collaboration beer, Cool as a Cucumber, which I'd had during FyneFest. The comments on twitter were suggesting that it went incredibly well with a shot of Botanist Islay gin, and the staff agreed with some knowing nods of their heads; obviously lethal stuff (I'm not sure if it's a blessing that I really dislike gin or not!). Lunch was one of Cloisters' celebrated salads, this time Chicken & Chorizo with chunky chips - with the Top Out Smoked Porter this is definite contender for Food & Beer pairing of the year so far.
Again it would have been easy to stay in Cloisters for an hour (or 2 or 3), but I needed to start walking back down Lothian Road towards some of the other EIBF pubs. First off was EIBF Central, The Hanging Bat.
I thought they were due to have a hands-on brewing demonstration in the afternoon, but it had been cancelled (although the Meet-the-Brewer with Redchurch & Summer Wine was still happening later on in the afternoon). This was probably just as well since it 'forced' me to choose only a single beer from their great selection and I went for Saison 14 from Weird Beard Brewing, a lovely light, dry & hoppy Saison. The 14 supposedly comes from when the original homebrew beer scored 14/50 in a national competition, i.e. almost 'undrinkable'. That certainly wasn't the case for the beer I had today, I'd have given it 41/50!
The next EIBF bar on my list was The Cambridge Bar, so this meant a walk to the west-end of Princes Street and then down Charlotte Street until the relative quiet of Young Street (it's amazing how much quieter things become just one additional street further away from Rose Street and George Street).
Even mid-afternoon the place was fairly busy with people having a late lunch, so most of the tables both at the bar area and further in towards the dining area were taken, but they do have a number of standing tables around the beam supports which I quite like. The Cambridge Bar was showcasing Wild Beer Company beers so I took a half of the Redwood, one of the most red-wine tasting beers I think I've ever had with an almost red wine vinegar sour after-taste. It was quite OK for a 1/2 but I don't think I could really have much more of it than that.
On leaving the Cambridge I headed into the lanes, lush foliage, mews apartments and steep steps of Stockbridge, probably one of the most affluent parts of the the city.
Located at the very start of busy Raeburn Place is the Stockbridge Tap.
They were showcasing Beavertown, Weird Beard and Tiny Rebel beers as well as having some of their standards from Scottish breweries and a very nice selection it was indeed.
I started off with the Tiny Rebel Cwtch, a slightly maltier & more fruity version of the Flux that I'd had on Wednesday; Cwtch is Welsh for 'Affectionate Hug' and I could well believe that on a cold night a pint of this would be like a 'hug in a glass'. Next I steeled myself to try the Beavertown Bloody 'Ell, a Blood Orange IPA at 7.9%. It seemed as if an orange tree had died to make this beer since there was so much orange aroma & taste, a blast of dry citrus & some red berries and then more orange in the finish - it was very nice indeed (and did I say it was orangey ?). And finally I tried the Beavertown 8-Ball, a murky rye beer with a dry citrus after-taste. Beavertown, Weird Beard & Tiny Rebel are certainly making some good beers and these were a more than acceptable way to while a hour or so away in the fabulous front room of the Stockbridge Tap.
I didn't really fancy the 30 degree climb back up Gloucester Street so took the bus from almost outside the Tap to Princes Street. This allowed me to walk through Princes Street Gardens and it's not too that often that I stop and think how fortunate it is to have a 'green space' on the other side of a main shopping street, complete with great views of a World Heritage Site (i.e. Edinburgh Castle).
I was then able to walk through the massed throng populating the Grassmarket...
... until reaching my final EIBF destination, the wonderful single-roomed traditional alehouse of The Bow Bar.
As always the beer selection in the Bow was pretty impressive, both on the magnificent Aitken tall fonts and the keg taps.
The most striking pump-clip/label was that of the Buxton/To Øl collaboration beer Sky Mountain (or Himmelbjerget), which took over 3 of the keg taps and which 'purported' to display a graph & pie-chart of the dreaming activity of the Danish people - bizzare & quite different to say the least. This was another sour beer, but with lots of bright, zesty citrus bitterness and a tart after-taste, very refreshing indeed on a hot summer's day. I managed to chat with a few other untappd users in the Bow about the EIBF - it was more than evident that everyone was having a great time and the talk was all about the great beers and where they'd had them.
And that was it - EIBF was done for me for another year. My beer of EIBF was probably the Kernel Imperial Brown Stout that I'd had in the Southern on Wednesday, but there really were so many amazing beers to try. Thanks again to A New Wave and all the pubs & bars that I visited - I had a blast!
Return transport:-
Bus: Corn Exchange to Lothian Road (35, Lothian Buses)
Bus: Stockbridge to Princes Street (29, Lothian Buses)
Train: Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen St
Showing posts with label Pubs: Edinburgh - Caley Sample Room. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pubs: Edinburgh - Caley Sample Room. Show all posts
Thursday, 18 July 2013
Tuesday, 8 May 2012
Waterways and pubs in South-West Edinburgh: 5th May 2012
This Saturday I wanted to watch the FA Cup Final with some friends in Edinburgh so a walk in or around Edinburgh seemed a sensible choice. I therefore looked up the extremely useful Beercast Edinburgh Beer Weekly, found out that the Blue Goose on Lanark Road was having a May Day Weekend Beer Festival and decided I could work in a walk from Colington in the South-West of Edinburgh to the City Centre, around a visit to the Blue Goose.
View Edinburgh : South-West in a larger map
Outward travel was as follows:-
Train: Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Haymarket
Bus: Lothian Road to Colington Village (Lothian Buses, 10)
The number 10 bus took me on a fairly mazy route through south-west Edinburgh, past Redford Barracks and the recruits on parade and then dropped me off just outside Colinton Village, a well-heeled part of suburban Edinburgh (which, in general, seemed very quiet today). Steps took me down into the main Bridge Street past the Colinton Inn (Deuchars IPA only) and then furthers steps brought me out opposite the Spylaw Tavern a nice sandstone terraced building with a great beer garden out the back with views down to Spylaw Park.
Just exiting the building was a group of 20 or so walkers who had stopped off for lunch, so the staff were somewhat frazzled but otherwise very friendly and very polite - great to see. On at the bar was Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted and Deuchars IPA, but I managed to get the last taste of the Adnams Sole Star - a malty low alcohol beer (2.7%), but with a decent bitter hop kick at the end, not bad at all. My soup and sandwiches came really quickly and I sat in the small bar/snug away from the main restaurant (with the TV off - it is possible!), looking at the pictures of the Water of Leith and Colinton Village.
Just down from the Spylaw Tavern I managed to find the entrance to Spylaw Park which led down to a footbridge over the river to join the Water of Leith Walkway. I'd walked the section from Balerno to Currie a couple of weeks ago (see here), but this section called the Dells was really stunning with a full-scale green canopy, numerous criss-crossing paths, quite a few weirs in full flow, and some impressive & secluded riversides houses - it really is a great piece of nature in the midst of a large city.
After meandering through the Dells for a couple of miles I left the Water of Leith Walkway at the intersection with the Union Canal.
The Water of Leith Visitor Centre, a converted schoolhouse is located here, and directly across the road is the Blue Goose Country Pub, which used to be known as The Dell.
The Beer Festival/May Day Holiday Party was in full swing in mid-afternoon in the beer garden with a BBQ sizzling away, some covered seating and live music about to go on. There were a number of Scottish beers on outside (including the lethal Orkney Skull Splitter) but I was intrigued to try the Blue Goose Cask Ale brewed by Tetley's (now part of the Carlsberg group) in Northampton (and sadly not Leeds any more).
To be honest it was 'just' OK, with the slightly bitter smoothness almost bringing back memories of the never to be repeated night I had on the Tetley's Smoothflow a long time ago, but to compensate the riverside beer garden was great, the funk/blues music pretty decent and the sun had started to shine - although some people were were in T-shirts, others still stuck to parkas.
I walked back up the steps to the Union Canal and started to walk towards Fountainbridge and the city centre. Both the canal footpath and the canal itself were quite busy with walkers, joggers, a couple of canal boats and even a single scull rowing boat.
I got off the canal towpath just after the Harrison Park Moorings and found the park really busy (perhaps that's where everybody goes in Edinburgh on a Bank Holiday) with football being played, frisbees thrown, kids on swings & roundabouts, and even an al-fresco student party/picnic. Towards the edge of the park the cherry blossom trees were in full bloom - really quite something.
Inhaling the great aroma from the nearby Caledonian Brewery I headed down to Angle Park Terrace and the Caley Sample Room.
It's been re-furbished in the last few years to become a bright, modern, open-plan establishment with one half setup mainly for drinkers on comfy sofas & wooden tables and the other set aside for the classy food. As well as a long list of coffees, wine and bottled beer, the 'craft' beer choice was really impressive today with a great selection from Williams Brothers (Joker), Tempest (Rye PA & Into the Light), Cromarty (Red Rocker), Black Isle (Export Scotch) and Magic Rock (Curious & Carnival) with the Carnival being a really full-on citrus flavoured beer, with some caramel malt, but if anything just slightly too bitter (I don't say that too often and would probably be willing to re-consider if I have it again outside in a beer garden!). They were also promoting their Summer Wine Brewery Dinner/Food and Beer matching evening - I've never been to one of these and really must try one sometime soon. I guess The Caley really is a cutting-edge contemporary pub/bar/restaurant, with something to offer a whole range of differing clientèle - so much so that it's been deemed to be worthy of a place in the 2012/13 The List Eating and Drinking Guide to Edinburgh - congratulations!
Just a short stagger from the Sample Room is the Athletic Arms, more commonly known as The Diggers due to the adjacent graveyards.
This is about as different from the Caley Sample Room as you can get but that doesn't detract from the fact that it's still a great place - a more traditional, old fashioned pub with large painted glass windows with the McEwan's logo, a wrap-around 3/4 style bar, small tables with enough room for a pint and a newspaper (and that's about it) and a great floor - partially wooden, partially chequer-tiled. I remember going here after a rugby game and having to drink Caledonian 80/-, just because everyone else was, but now it's Stewart Brewing that have their Diggers 80/- on a couple of the taps. Also available were Broughton Clipper IPA, their Coulsons EPA, and Caledonian Flying Scotsman and their 2point8. Since I'd had the Adnams 'lite' beer earlier in the afternoon I though I'd try the 2point8, especially since the beer miles involved from the brewery would have been minimal, but it wasn't too good, a bit bland and there was definitely some diactyl kicking about at the end.
(You might just be able to spot a large dog spread-out on one of the seats - this was definitely a case of 'let sleeping dogs lie')
From here it was just a fairly short walk up Lanark Road to Haymarket, with a slight detour into Appellation Wines (again) to pick up the new Stewart beer (Radical Road) and Tempest's Double Cresta Black, and then into William Street to meet my pals in Bert's Bar, now a Maclays pub.
Maclays have refurbished the place somewhat in the last few years so that there are more tables to have something to eat at (apart from their famous pies) in the side room, but the bar area's still pretty much the same (long and narrow) and can get really busy when there's a big sporting event on as per today. We quite happily had a few great pints of Fyne Ales Jarl, Stewart Forth Mist and Knops California Common (quite caramely today) watching the game come to life in the last 30 minutes - can't really ask for much better than that - except for the result to be different I guess!
Return transport:-
Train: Edinburgh Haymarket to Glasgow Queen Street
View Edinburgh : South-West in a larger map
Outward travel was as follows:-
Train: Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Haymarket
Bus: Lothian Road to Colington Village (Lothian Buses, 10)
The number 10 bus took me on a fairly mazy route through south-west Edinburgh, past Redford Barracks and the recruits on parade and then dropped me off just outside Colinton Village, a well-heeled part of suburban Edinburgh (which, in general, seemed very quiet today). Steps took me down into the main Bridge Street past the Colinton Inn (Deuchars IPA only) and then furthers steps brought me out opposite the Spylaw Tavern a nice sandstone terraced building with a great beer garden out the back with views down to Spylaw Park.
Just exiting the building was a group of 20 or so walkers who had stopped off for lunch, so the staff were somewhat frazzled but otherwise very friendly and very polite - great to see. On at the bar was Harviestoun Bitter & Twisted and Deuchars IPA, but I managed to get the last taste of the Adnams Sole Star - a malty low alcohol beer (2.7%), but with a decent bitter hop kick at the end, not bad at all. My soup and sandwiches came really quickly and I sat in the small bar/snug away from the main restaurant (with the TV off - it is possible!), looking at the pictures of the Water of Leith and Colinton Village.
Just down from the Spylaw Tavern I managed to find the entrance to Spylaw Park which led down to a footbridge over the river to join the Water of Leith Walkway. I'd walked the section from Balerno to Currie a couple of weeks ago (see here), but this section called the Dells was really stunning with a full-scale green canopy, numerous criss-crossing paths, quite a few weirs in full flow, and some impressive & secluded riversides houses - it really is a great piece of nature in the midst of a large city.
After meandering through the Dells for a couple of miles I left the Water of Leith Walkway at the intersection with the Union Canal.
The Water of Leith Visitor Centre, a converted schoolhouse is located here, and directly across the road is the Blue Goose Country Pub, which used to be known as The Dell.
The Beer Festival/May Day Holiday Party was in full swing in mid-afternoon in the beer garden with a BBQ sizzling away, some covered seating and live music about to go on. There were a number of Scottish beers on outside (including the lethal Orkney Skull Splitter) but I was intrigued to try the Blue Goose Cask Ale brewed by Tetley's (now part of the Carlsberg group) in Northampton (and sadly not Leeds any more).
To be honest it was 'just' OK, with the slightly bitter smoothness almost bringing back memories of the never to be repeated night I had on the Tetley's Smoothflow a long time ago, but to compensate the riverside beer garden was great, the funk/blues music pretty decent and the sun had started to shine - although some people were were in T-shirts, others still stuck to parkas.
I walked back up the steps to the Union Canal and started to walk towards Fountainbridge and the city centre. Both the canal footpath and the canal itself were quite busy with walkers, joggers, a couple of canal boats and even a single scull rowing boat.
I got off the canal towpath just after the Harrison Park Moorings and found the park really busy (perhaps that's where everybody goes in Edinburgh on a Bank Holiday) with football being played, frisbees thrown, kids on swings & roundabouts, and even an al-fresco student party/picnic. Towards the edge of the park the cherry blossom trees were in full bloom - really quite something.
Inhaling the great aroma from the nearby Caledonian Brewery I headed down to Angle Park Terrace and the Caley Sample Room.
It's been re-furbished in the last few years to become a bright, modern, open-plan establishment with one half setup mainly for drinkers on comfy sofas & wooden tables and the other set aside for the classy food. As well as a long list of coffees, wine and bottled beer, the 'craft' beer choice was really impressive today with a great selection from Williams Brothers (Joker), Tempest (Rye PA & Into the Light), Cromarty (Red Rocker), Black Isle (Export Scotch) and Magic Rock (Curious & Carnival) with the Carnival being a really full-on citrus flavoured beer, with some caramel malt, but if anything just slightly too bitter (I don't say that too often and would probably be willing to re-consider if I have it again outside in a beer garden!). They were also promoting their Summer Wine Brewery Dinner/Food and Beer matching evening - I've never been to one of these and really must try one sometime soon. I guess The Caley really is a cutting-edge contemporary pub/bar/restaurant, with something to offer a whole range of differing clientèle - so much so that it's been deemed to be worthy of a place in the 2012/13 The List Eating and Drinking Guide to Edinburgh - congratulations!
Just a short stagger from the Sample Room is the Athletic Arms, more commonly known as The Diggers due to the adjacent graveyards.
This is about as different from the Caley Sample Room as you can get but that doesn't detract from the fact that it's still a great place - a more traditional, old fashioned pub with large painted glass windows with the McEwan's logo, a wrap-around 3/4 style bar, small tables with enough room for a pint and a newspaper (and that's about it) and a great floor - partially wooden, partially chequer-tiled. I remember going here after a rugby game and having to drink Caledonian 80/-, just because everyone else was, but now it's Stewart Brewing that have their Diggers 80/- on a couple of the taps. Also available were Broughton Clipper IPA, their Coulsons EPA, and Caledonian Flying Scotsman and their 2point8. Since I'd had the Adnams 'lite' beer earlier in the afternoon I though I'd try the 2point8, especially since the beer miles involved from the brewery would have been minimal, but it wasn't too good, a bit bland and there was definitely some diactyl kicking about at the end.
(You might just be able to spot a large dog spread-out on one of the seats - this was definitely a case of 'let sleeping dogs lie')
From here it was just a fairly short walk up Lanark Road to Haymarket, with a slight detour into Appellation Wines (again) to pick up the new Stewart beer (Radical Road) and Tempest's Double Cresta Black, and then into William Street to meet my pals in Bert's Bar, now a Maclays pub.
Maclays have refurbished the place somewhat in the last few years so that there are more tables to have something to eat at (apart from their famous pies) in the side room, but the bar area's still pretty much the same (long and narrow) and can get really busy when there's a big sporting event on as per today. We quite happily had a few great pints of Fyne Ales Jarl, Stewart Forth Mist and Knops California Common (quite caramely today) watching the game come to life in the last 30 minutes - can't really ask for much better than that - except for the result to be different I guess!
Return transport:-
Train: Edinburgh Haymarket to Glasgow Queen Street
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