After a couple of day's rest from my first foray to the Edinburgh Independent Beer Festival (EIBF) of 2013 it was time to head back to Edinburgh on the Saturday (my 4th weekend in a row to the Capital City, I was starting recognise some of the staff and passengers on the same train out of Queen Street). This time I hoped to take in the bars I'd missed on Wednesday as well as engage in a fairly lightning strike on the Scottish Real Ale Festival (SRAF) as there were only so many hours available in the afternoon.
View EIBF2 in a larger map
Outward transport was as follows:-
Train: Glasgow Queen St to Edinburgh Haymarket
On leaving Haymarket I decided that a walk out to the venue of the SRAF, the Edinburgh Corn Exchange, approx. a mile & a 1/2 south-west of the station would be a good idea before the full effects of a Scottish summer's sun unfolded (incredibly I say that without a hint of sarcasm this year). Thankfully one of the EIBF bars was pretty well on the way, The Caley Sample Room on Angle Park Terrace - I like it when these things work out.
The Caley had opened at 11:00am for the odd breakfast or coffee person, but it was completely empty when I reached it at just past 11:15am, although everything was spic-and-span on the lounge side of the bar and all the tables had been set for lunch on the dining side. They had held a Meet-the-Brewer event with Harbour Brewing from Cornwall as part of the EIBF on Wednesday so the hand-pulls and keg taps were still full of Harbour beers.
Morning was the not time to try some full-on barrel-aged 7%+ beers so I settled for a Harbour Antipodean Rye, a spicy rye ale with a blast of bitter hops in the finish - an nice beer, but it did seem to be served a tad too warm (I'll blame it on being the first drink of the day). The Harbour Pale Ale #5 was far better - a lovely bitter pale ale with some citra sweet grapefruit (almost pineappley) bitterness. I did manage to cage a couple of samples of both the Harbour Special B (aged in Appleton rum casks) and the Tiny Rebel Grand Regal Stout (Canadian Bourbon Barrel), many thanks to the barman for this, but both are definitely night-cap beers for me.
First beers of the day done (well before noon, gads!) I headed further along Slateford Road towards the Corn Exchange. When in this part of the city and with the wind in the right direction the scent from the Caledonian Brewery is fantastic - a full-on aroma of sweet toffee malt. And the building still looks fantastic as well.
Further along Slateford Road I came across what used to be the Slateford Maltings; these closed quite some time ago and instead there is now a gated entranceway to an almost fully enclosed 6-storey U-shaped apartment complex complete with tree-lined inner courtyard - it's a large, impressive structure which thankfully still retains a lot of its original shape & form.
A walk of only a few minutes more then took me to the Corn Exchange complex. I arrived just as the queue of thirsty drinkers had been let in; good timing on my part.
After a chat with Graeme from CAMRA Ayrshire (and fellow Laurieston Bar fan) I entered the spacious main hall of the Corn Exchange. There were still 125 beers available, not bad at all for a Saturday (they were also opening on the Sunday for the first time), but obviously a lot of the more interesting and/or newly released beers has disappeared. What was still fully available to Saturday attendees was the Golden Beer challenge - 8 golden beers from 8 different breweries all at 5% abv to be tried and rated as part of a blind tasting - a really good idea indeed (and won by Stewart Brewing - see the results on the SRAF Facebook page here)
There were also some more than decent beers with actual real names available - I tried my first ever beers from both Stonehaven's six°north (Old School, a lovely Belgian Wit) and also Windswept's APA (not bad, a bit too sweet & malty for me). However my favourite was probably Loch Ness's madNESS (One Hop Beyond), an initially well balanced amber ale which then finished with a real blast of bitter green hops (and the pump-clip showed a nice bit of imagination at work as well).
I think I stayed at the SRAF for only about an hour and a 1/2; it would have been very easy to stay for most of the afternoon but I had a number of pubs to visit before my late afternoon curfew. First of all I had to get the bus back into the city centre which (again thankfully) picks up almost opposite the Corn Exchange building. Although I managed to miss this by about 15 seconds, it was easy enough to catch it at the next stop around the corner due to the non-synchronisation of traffic lights around the Corn Exchange junction - phew! This dropped me off at Lothian Road and from here it was not exactly a hard decision to head to the sanctuary (ouch!) of Cloisters for lunch and more EIBF beer.
Cloisters were showcasing Scottish beers during EIBF and the day before they had held the launch of the newest Edinburgh area microbrewery, Top Out Brewery. I'd had their Staple at SRAF, a nice citrusy pale ale (maybe a tad sweet), but this gave me the chance to try their Smoked Porter and wow was this smoky, some bitter chocolate at the start but it was blitzed by the smoky malts and probably headed way out into deep fried smoked sausage supper territory - I quite liked it!
I ordered lunch and chatted to the staff about the Wild Beer/Fyne Ales collaboration beer, Cool as a Cucumber, which I'd had during FyneFest. The comments on twitter were suggesting that it went incredibly well with a shot of Botanist Islay gin, and the staff agreed with some knowing nods of their heads; obviously lethal stuff (I'm not sure if it's a blessing that I really dislike gin or not!). Lunch was one of Cloisters' celebrated salads, this time Chicken & Chorizo with chunky chips - with the Top Out Smoked Porter this is definite contender for Food & Beer pairing of the year so far.
Again it would have been easy to stay in Cloisters for an hour (or 2 or 3), but I needed to start walking back down Lothian Road towards some of the other EIBF pubs. First off was EIBF Central, The Hanging Bat.
I thought they were due to have a hands-on brewing demonstration in the afternoon, but it had been cancelled (although the Meet-the-Brewer with Redchurch & Summer Wine was still happening later on in the afternoon). This was probably just as well since it 'forced' me to choose only a single beer from their great selection and I went for Saison 14 from Weird Beard Brewing, a lovely light, dry & hoppy Saison. The 14 supposedly comes from when the original homebrew beer scored 14/50 in a national competition, i.e. almost 'undrinkable'. That certainly wasn't the case for the beer I had today, I'd have given it 41/50!
The next EIBF bar on my list was The Cambridge Bar, so this meant a walk to the west-end of Princes Street and then down Charlotte Street until the relative quiet of Young Street (it's amazing how much quieter things become just one additional street further away from Rose Street and George Street).
Even mid-afternoon the place was fairly busy with people having a late lunch, so most of the tables both at the bar area and further in towards the dining area were taken, but they do have a number of standing tables around the beam supports which I quite like. The Cambridge Bar was showcasing Wild Beer Company beers so I took a half of the Redwood, one of the most red-wine tasting beers I think I've ever had with an almost red wine vinegar sour after-taste. It was quite OK for a 1/2 but I don't think I could really have much more of it than that.
On leaving the Cambridge I headed into the lanes, lush foliage, mews apartments and steep steps of Stockbridge, probably one of the most affluent parts of the the city.
Located at the very start of busy Raeburn Place is the Stockbridge Tap.
They were showcasing Beavertown, Weird Beard and Tiny Rebel beers as well as having some of their standards from Scottish breweries and a very nice selection it was indeed.
I started off with the Tiny Rebel Cwtch, a slightly maltier & more fruity version of the Flux that I'd had on Wednesday; Cwtch is Welsh for 'Affectionate Hug' and I could well believe that on a cold night a pint of this would be like a 'hug in a glass'. Next I steeled myself to try the Beavertown Bloody 'Ell, a Blood Orange IPA at 7.9%. It seemed as if an orange tree had died to make this beer since there was so much orange aroma & taste, a blast of dry citrus & some red berries and then more orange in the finish - it was very nice indeed (and did I say it was orangey ?). And finally I tried the Beavertown 8-Ball, a murky rye beer with a dry citrus after-taste. Beavertown, Weird Beard & Tiny Rebel are certainly making some good beers and these were a more than acceptable way to while a hour or so away in the fabulous front room of the Stockbridge Tap.
I didn't really fancy the 30 degree climb back up Gloucester Street so took the bus from almost outside the Tap to Princes Street. This allowed me to walk through Princes Street Gardens and it's not too that often that I stop and think how fortunate it is to have a 'green space' on the other side of a main shopping street, complete with great views of a World Heritage Site (i.e. Edinburgh Castle).
I was then able to walk through the massed throng populating the Grassmarket...
... until reaching my final EIBF destination, the wonderful single-roomed traditional alehouse of The Bow Bar.
As always the beer selection in the Bow was pretty impressive, both on the magnificent Aitken tall fonts and the keg taps.
The most striking pump-clip/label was that of the Buxton/To Øl collaboration beer Sky Mountain (or Himmelbjerget), which took over 3 of the keg taps and which 'purported' to display a graph & pie-chart of the dreaming activity of the Danish people - bizzare & quite different to say the least. This was another sour beer, but with lots of bright, zesty citrus bitterness and a tart after-taste, very refreshing indeed on a hot summer's day. I managed to chat with a few other untappd users in the Bow about the EIBF - it was more than evident that everyone was having a great time and the talk was all about the great beers and where they'd had them.
And that was it - EIBF was done for me for another year. My beer of EIBF was probably the Kernel Imperial Brown Stout that I'd had in the Southern on Wednesday, but there really were so many amazing beers to try. Thanks again to A New Wave and all the pubs & bars that I visited - I had a blast!
Return transport:-
Bus: Corn Exchange to Lothian Road (35, Lothian Buses)
Bus: Stockbridge to Princes Street (29, Lothian Buses)
Train: Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen St
Showing posts with label Pubs: Edinburgh - Cambridge Bar. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pubs: Edinburgh - Cambridge Bar. Show all posts
Thursday, 18 July 2013
Saturday, 14 July 2012
Edinburgh Independents Beer Festival: 14th Jul 2012
I was really looking forward to the Edinburgh Independents Beer Festival - 8 really great Edinburgh pubs putting on a serious amount of interesting, incredibly rare & completely new to Scotland beers over the space of 3 days (I actually almost put down the awe***e word there!).
Lots of credit must be due to the people at Craftcentric for setting this up - see their blog for more details, the breweries for giving us such great beer and of course, for the pubs for putting this on. Judging by the amount of beer that had been consumed in the first 2 days, I was going to miss a lot of the very rare high abv beers (my liver thanks me!), but thought as a bit of a challenge, I could *try* to visit all of the pubs during a single Saturday afternoon, blogging in (almost) real-time - technology (especially the 3G/WiFi connection) and weather permitting of course.
View Edinburgh Independants in a larger map
Outward transport:-
  Train: Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Waverley
10:20 On train
Now to try & determine the order to walk around in. I wanted to work around the launch of Moor Grockle Grog in The Caley @2pm & the new Tempest beer @5pm in the Bow Bar so decided to get off at Waverley, start at Holyrood 9A & walk (vaguely) clockwise. This would mean Holyrood 9A -> The Southern -> Cloisters -> Red Squirrel -> Caley Sample Room -> Stockbridge Tap -> Cambridge Bar -> Bow Bar and rest...
11:15 Holyrood 9A
It was pretty busy with breakfasters but I was really only interested in the beer selection
I decided on a Kernel Black IPA VI and a bacon & egg roll - one of the more diverse breakfasts I've ever had, but very tasty!
11:45 Great Grog Shop
A slight diversion here to pick up some bottles that don't seem to ever make it to Glasgow - sigh...
That Thornbridge/Odell Pond Hopper just made me buy it - honest!
11:55 The Southern
First time in the place - most impressed - classy place. Lots of Magic Rock beer still on - Clown Juice was lovely & understated, with the Kernel Summit IPA just going on.
12:20 The Meadows
Still soggy here but dry enough to allow a gorilla to play the drums (although this seems to be a standard spot for him/it).
12:30 Cloisters
Relaxing in the lovely ambience of Cloisters with a Bristol Beer Factory Acer - a great low abv best bitter. Great chat with the guys at the bar about beer in general and how they're reverting back to more cask ale.
Also - BBF Seven just about to go on.
12:50 Red Squirrel
Met Ronnie from The 3 Judges & dragged him back into the Red Squirrel. Lots of Red Church, Lovibonds, Alechemy & Red Willow on here. Being so close to Princes St this is probably the most 'touristy' of the FT pubs, but still a great place for beer.
1:45 Caley Sample Room
We had a good walk along FountainBridge since we just missed the 34 Bus. In the Caley met the (in)famous Craig Garvie & his lovely family as well as @StravAle (David).
The guys from CraftCentric arrived with Andy from SWB (what a amazing guy - he brought a beer (Dr Paracelsus) up with him on the train!) for the Moor Grockle Grog launch.
This had lots of liquorice, aniseed & some sweet oakiness - it's lethal stuff!
2:30 34 Bus outside the Caley to Princes St
Now en-route to Stockbridge Tap. Lots of hills to come!
On the way from Princes St to Stockbridge there are lots of amazing private gardens, some with interesting/weird signs.
3:00 Stockbridge Tap
Lots of Moor beers still on, including the 9%+ JJJ Double IPA, but *yay* the 10%+ Magic Rock Bourbon Aged Bearded Lady is still there and it is divine - lots of boozy bourbon on a great stout base - only a 1/3 pint is required here.
3:45 Cambridge Bar
Met Rich from the Beercast - we both had steep walks from Stockbridge.
The Cambridge is perhaps a bit more of a food orientated bar comp to a trad boozer, but there is still a great selection of beer from Tempest, Camden and the Kernel. The Kernel Amarillo on keg was cold, but really nice - very bitter indeed.
4:45 Bow Bar
It was then a walk to the Bow Bar (via the Red Squirrel) where we were looking for a new Tempest beer (World of Pain) to be on @ 5pm. It was slightly late, but it doesn't matter when the staff are so friendly to talk to. However eventually Chris Mair stood up to extol the virtues of the new beer.
There was certainly lots of rye malt in there, with loads of hops, perhaps just a tad cold, but still a great way to finish the afternoon. And what a fantastic beery afternoon - days like this don't happen too often.
5:30pm Back on the train to Glasgow.
Outward travel:
  Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen Street
Lots of credit must be due to the people at Craftcentric for setting this up - see their blog for more details, the breweries for giving us such great beer and of course, for the pubs for putting this on. Judging by the amount of beer that had been consumed in the first 2 days, I was going to miss a lot of the very rare high abv beers (my liver thanks me!), but thought as a bit of a challenge, I could *try* to visit all of the pubs during a single Saturday afternoon, blogging in (almost) real-time - technology (especially the 3G/WiFi connection) and weather permitting of course.
View Edinburgh Independants in a larger map
Outward transport:-
  Train: Glasgow Queen Street to Edinburgh Waverley
10:20 On train
Now to try & determine the order to walk around in. I wanted to work around the launch of Moor Grockle Grog in The Caley @2pm & the new Tempest beer @5pm in the Bow Bar so decided to get off at Waverley, start at Holyrood 9A & walk (vaguely) clockwise. This would mean Holyrood 9A -> The Southern -> Cloisters -> Red Squirrel -> Caley Sample Room -> Stockbridge Tap -> Cambridge Bar -> Bow Bar and rest...
11:15 Holyrood 9A
It was pretty busy with breakfasters but I was really only interested in the beer selection
I decided on a Kernel Black IPA VI and a bacon & egg roll - one of the more diverse breakfasts I've ever had, but very tasty!
11:45 Great Grog Shop
A slight diversion here to pick up some bottles that don't seem to ever make it to Glasgow - sigh...
That Thornbridge/Odell Pond Hopper just made me buy it - honest!
11:55 The Southern
First time in the place - most impressed - classy place. Lots of Magic Rock beer still on - Clown Juice was lovely & understated, with the Kernel Summit IPA just going on.
12:20 The Meadows
Still soggy here but dry enough to allow a gorilla to play the drums (although this seems to be a standard spot for him/it).
12:30 Cloisters
Relaxing in the lovely ambience of Cloisters with a Bristol Beer Factory Acer - a great low abv best bitter. Great chat with the guys at the bar about beer in general and how they're reverting back to more cask ale.
Also - BBF Seven just about to go on.
12:50 Red Squirrel
Met Ronnie from The 3 Judges & dragged him back into the Red Squirrel. Lots of Red Church, Lovibonds, Alechemy & Red Willow on here. Being so close to Princes St this is probably the most 'touristy' of the FT pubs, but still a great place for beer.
1:45 Caley Sample Room
We had a good walk along FountainBridge since we just missed the 34 Bus. In the Caley met the (in)famous Craig Garvie & his lovely family as well as @StravAle (David).
The guys from CraftCentric arrived with Andy from SWB (what a amazing guy - he brought a beer (Dr Paracelsus) up with him on the train!) for the Moor Grockle Grog launch.
This had lots of liquorice, aniseed & some sweet oakiness - it's lethal stuff!
2:30 34 Bus outside the Caley to Princes St
Now en-route to Stockbridge Tap. Lots of hills to come!
On the way from Princes St to Stockbridge there are lots of amazing private gardens, some with interesting/weird signs.
3:00 Stockbridge Tap
Lots of Moor beers still on, including the 9%+ JJJ Double IPA, but *yay* the 10%+ Magic Rock Bourbon Aged Bearded Lady is still there and it is divine - lots of boozy bourbon on a great stout base - only a 1/3 pint is required here.
3:45 Cambridge Bar
Met Rich from the Beercast - we both had steep walks from Stockbridge.
The Cambridge is perhaps a bit more of a food orientated bar comp to a trad boozer, but there is still a great selection of beer from Tempest, Camden and the Kernel. The Kernel Amarillo on keg was cold, but really nice - very bitter indeed.
4:45 Bow Bar
It was then a walk to the Bow Bar (via the Red Squirrel) where we were looking for a new Tempest beer (World of Pain) to be on @ 5pm. It was slightly late, but it doesn't matter when the staff are so friendly to talk to. However eventually Chris Mair stood up to extol the virtues of the new beer.
There was certainly lots of rye malt in there, with loads of hops, perhaps just a tad cold, but still a great way to finish the afternoon. And what a fantastic beery afternoon - days like this don't happen too often.
5:30pm Back on the train to Glasgow.
Outward travel:
  Edinburgh Waverley to Glasgow Queen Street
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